Now that ya know what to look for on the package. Know that you have the "FREEDOM" to buy the exact individual seeds that "YOU" want in
your plot that will specifically match your situation. You can buy these seeds from a local Co-op or farm supply company. Not only that....you
can buy it at allot more affordable rate leaving you with money saved to spend on the needed fertilizer and Ag Lime to keep that plot green
and healthy. The following clover seeds are just some of the types that are available to purchase for your food plots. Be sure to look for and
research each seed to see which ones will be best suited to your each specific situation. Such as soil types, maturity rates, RFV levels and
other conditions that can sometimes drastically change from one state to the next and even one side of a farm to the next. Note that some
types are more cold tolerant than others and will remain green and attractive longer than others.
Clover Types: White Ladino, White Dutch, White Huia, Alice, Alsike, Kura, White blossom Sweet, Yellow Blossom Sweet, Crimson Red, Red
Berseem, Medium Red, Mammoth Red, etc.
As well there are a few different types of alfalfa that are better suited to different soil types. The main thing to keep in mind when planing
alfalfa is that this type of plant is a plant that creates a toxin that will not allow its self to reseed on itself. Thus when needing to replant you
will need to till up the entire area and plant a cereal grain in its place. Then successful replanting will be possible. So plant alfalfa's alone in a
separate plot with a few clovers mixed in.
As for fertilizers? Know that clover produces its own nitrogen. Proper preparation for a successful plot will require the addition of potash, dap
(phosphorus) and ag lime. Be sure to mow the area first. Then spray the entire area with a burn down chemical to kill all the weeds in the area.
Once weeds are dead the area may need plowed to turn the soil. Otherwise disc the area thoroughly and then apply Potash, DAP and Ag Lime
and disc into the soil. You will then need to firm the seed bed. If ya got a small plot, a simple yard roller will be fine. Once the seed bed is
prepared you may then broadcast your selected seed blend and then drag the top soil to cover the seed.
Now as for deer mineral. First check your local game laws. Some states do not allow the use of salt and some have even began banning the
use of mineral as well. This is a good reason to have the best food plots you can. But AGAIN, Look on the back to see what is in the bag. The
two substances needed for bucks to grow antlers and for doe to stay healthy while nursing fawns is calcium and phosphorus. Again, just
because it says lucky buck or imperial on the front of the bag and has a nice trophy picture of a buck of the front. IT DOES NOT MAKE IT THE
BEST MINERAL SUPPLEMENT AVAILABLE! Just look at the back labels (examples) below and you will know what to look for. Go to a Farm co
op store and go to the feed section. Flip the bag over and look on the back. A 12 -12 vitamin mineral supplement is what you are looking for as
it contains the highest level of the two most important substances needed. Now know that deer like their mineral "IN" the soil. That is how
mother nature provided it to them way before man put it into block form. And if you have ever noticed after you put a block out that the deer
eat the "SOIL" out from around the block. WHY?...that is the way nature taught them to retrieve it.
The best mixture is one 50lb Bag of Mineral and one 50lb Bag of granular Mixing salt PER LICK SITE. Dig the ground up but don't remove the
soil from the hole. Mix in the entire contents of both bags into the hole. Mix into the soil the best you can. If you want it to work a little faster?
Then dump a bucket of water onto the site so the salt n minerals absorb into the soil faster. Each spring you will want to replenish each site
with the same amount of product. Now for those that think they are gonna kill a big ole buck with its head stuck in the hole? Ya need to know
that when the velvet sheds (and it doesn't matter how many bucks are using it) the majority of all bucks will stop coming to the lick. This is
due to they no longer need the mineral to grow antlers. Sorry to disappoint you. It just is what it is, NATURE!! Only thing the minerals do is
help provide the minerals should the deer need it. Other than that?....It is not what ya think it is. Never think you can compensate for a lack of
knowledge and hunting skills by placing out mineral, salt or creating food plots. Year around scouting, constant use of trail cams and time
spent getting to know the biology and habits of the animal will make you the best and most successful hunter in any situation!
|SUMMER & FALL FOOD PLOTS
First thing some whitetail enthusiasts need to come to terms with? Is that "your" situation will not always match the conditions you are
fantasizing about after reading about plots or watching segments on a dvd or outdoor TV. If ya really want to be successful with what you are
doing? Ya gotta understand that you will need to adapt to "your" specific situation and accept there are no magic blends or potions to get
every big buck in the woods onto just your property. That does not mean you wont have some sort of results. Just know that it isn't just a
"Throw n grow and a hunting we will go and kill a big buck" situation. So getting the best results from the biggest to the smallest of food plots
will require extreme research and planning. And that means first cutting through the all the bull crap every food plot seed selling person in the
industry is trying to cram down your throat that their blends are the best.
When ever it comes to deer mineral and food plot seeds for whitetails. The "FIRST THING" you need to understand is that just because it has
a picture of a deer on the package doesn't mean it is gonna bring the deer running better than any other products. Always remember the
hunting industry is trying to sell you the image of "You need to buy this from me because you will kill the biggest bucks of your life every
year as I have developed the best of kept hunting secrets". Yeah....Right!
So look.....there is a point where seed is seed....and mineral is mineral I don't care what bag ya put it in or what the picture is on the front. If
you want the best results from your mineral licks and plot? You first need to understand just what is in the bag AND just what each "type" of
seed is and what it does. What we have to select from is perennials and annuals. The perennial will grow for several seasons from one
planting and annuals will require planting each and every year. Now with Clover being an important ingredient to a food plot. First understand
that some clovers are perennials and some are annuals that will die off in a year. There are several different types of clover seeds and each
clover is different. Some have a higher RFV (relative feed value) that others. If ya really want to know what each clover seed is, does and
provides to your food plots? Do some extensive research to see what each type of clover will provide for you. Some clovers are higher in
protein than others. Some are drought tolerant, some are wet tolerant, some are shade tolerant, some are adapted better for different soil
types and will grow better/only in some soil types where others will not. Each seed has a different maturity rate. Therefore with having
several different types of seeds in your customized blend. You will always have a plant that is attractive to animals until the next one matures
and the goal is to keep em coming for as long and as often as ya can.
OVER THE COUNTER BLENDS:
The first thing you need to understand about prebagged and heavily promoted blends? JUST WHAT IS IN THE BAG YOU ARE BUYING? Most
people new to the idea of planting a plot don't have a clue what they are buying. That is why they put catchy phrases on the bag like "Throw &
Grow" or "Secret Spot" Bla Bla. So first learn just what each seed is and then ALWAYS LOOK ON THE CONTENT LABEL / TAG ON THE BACK
OF THE BAG! It will tell you just what kind of lol..."real deal" you are actually getting. Once you have done your research and understand what
each type of see is and/or what it does? You are gonna soon learn that allot of what you are buying is mainly annuals that grow up....green up
and die. THUS....lol you buy another bag for next year. Are ya starting to get the picture? sell, seLL, SELL!! So.....look on the back of each bag
of everything you are considering buying to see the just what the actual percentages of seed types that it contains. Below are examples of
labels on the back of food plot seed and mineral bags from a well promoted hunting industry product from the Whitetail Institute.
Whitetail Food Plots
Get it right - "From the Beginning"
On the left is two mineral mixes sold by the Whitetail Institute. Note
the levels of minerals in each bag. For $30 you can get 20 lbs of
their mineral OR....you can spend $15 - $25 for 50lbs of Mineral with
higher levels of the most needed supplements and $5 for a 50lb
bag of mixing salt and have 100lbs of mix for $20 - $30.
Take note to the percentage levels of the bag contents. FIRST: The highest
content level is the seed "COATING". Which is clay and seed inoculate. Therefore
this 18lb bag of Imperial Seed which retails for $143.00......? You just paid $48 for
that specific ingredient which wont make or break your plot due to proper soil
preparation is always needed regardless. Bottom line here is? Use the $50 to
properly fertilize and lime your plots. SECOND: The percentage levels of seed
contents. Now even though it all says clover.....? Know that 33% of the bag
contents is Berseem clover. Now just what is berseem clover? It is a Red Clover
that is a "ANNUAL" clover. Best benefit is this type of clover can reach a protein
level of 28%. But hey....if ya want it in your plot next year? You will need to frost
seed back into your plot next spring. The remaining type of seed is the ever so
popular Ladino clover. This is a perennial that is a sweet large leafed clover that
is attractive to deer. So in this purchase you gained two types of clover with
different maturity rates with one type lasting for 3-5 years (with proper
maintenance) and the other only lasting one season.